Manfrotto Bogen
Tuesday, January 11th, 2011
A flash unit is an essential piece of equipment for the serious photographer. Unfortunately, when mounted on a camera and time directly on the face of someone there can be some unpleasant results. You've probably seen it even, flat lighting, harsh shadows, call shiny skin and red eyes a few.
There are two possible solutions to this, is to bounce your flash off a ceiling or near the wall. The second, more control, the flash from the camera intact.
For a camera flash is off you need five things:
- A flash with a decent performance. Make out to the "Guide Number (GN), how much power does your device. For example, a Nikon SB800 flash unit has a Guide number 56, that many friends, if there is a higher GN, which is even better. You will probably be able to pick up an older second-hand flash unit for any very little money. It need not be compatible with your camera, you need to be able only to set the output manually.
- A light modifier. This can be an umbrella a small softbox or various other purpose built products. This is used to soften, direct and control the quality of your light. I usually use a 48 "screen with a removable silver lining. You can either use the flash in the top or remove the feed and shoot them through a period of two different qualities of light.
- A bracket to the flash unit and umbrella mounted on a tripod. This is ideal for this swing, "The 2905 product sheet I have only found a Umbrella Adapter f / Super Clamp "Made by Manfrotto. You also need another small hot shoe adapter to the flash unit to the bracket, in most Camera will connect.
- A small portable light stand, but big enough to not over when you drop an umbrella attached.
- A means for triggering the flash. This will probably depend on your budget. The cheapest way to do it is with a cable between the PC connector (if you have one) your camera flash. Radio triggers are my preferred option, you may pay a very cheap off eBay for about 20.00 pounds or a few hundred for a professional Device. They all work may require a bit of cheap glue, from time to time. They consist of two or more units, the transmitter goes into the hot shoe the camera can be connected to a receiver or more flashes. You can also infrared-slave triggers and other installed systems. Take a look at your flash unit and see what it can do.
Next, you must set up your light. Put the status, the holder and adjusts the flash and umbrella. Connect You raise your chosen and tested. You should now have a very versatile, portable lighting system.
For your first shots, make sure the roof is set as far as possible from the device. The further away the screen, the larger the source of light, means a greater light source and a softer natural looking light. Put the power of your flash manually to a quarter or half-power and some test shots, you'll quickly get an idea of the setting, you need. Always use a manual setting for this technology, TTL will not work.
Find a subject and start to experiment prepared. Move your light around them and see how it affects the mood of the picture. Set the flash high and slightly off-center, and you become a beautiful soft light to get. As you move it on both sides of the subject round, it will look darker on one side of the face and start more moody. Move the flash closer to the subject and the light is soft, move them back and you will get a harder effect.
Try different modifiers, see what you want. You can also use a bare flash when it is turned on, it is a useful tool anymore. You can bounce off a wall or a really hard View, point it straight on this issue.
Do not forget to take into account the ambient light (the light that is already there). You can choose to make it overwhelm your Flash, you might want to make it balance, so you both light sources. Flash is very, very quickly, so that the speed on your Camera is only affected the ambient light, aperture cooperates ambient and flash. As soon as your head around this a lot more control over a combination will have lighting.
If you enjoy this portrait is a good way to ensure you have a quality product light source at any time. You can make your shots look like they were recorded in a studio, or they may a really natural look, the possibilities are endless. Get the flash of your camera or today!
David Perris is an established wedding, press and corporate photographer based in Brighton, Sussex. Visit his website at http://www.luckydogphoto.com/wedding-photographer.html for examples of wedding photography and advice. David also posts selections of recent work on his blog at http://www/luckydogphoto.com/blog/
(c) Copyright David Perris 2009
Super Clamp Review: Adorama ($17) vs. Bogen-Manfrotto ($27)
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Manfrotto 087NW Bogen Wind Up Stand Special Order Only $991.86 Chrome steel stand with geared column. 2 risers extend simultaneously at an elevation of 4.4cm per handle turn. Safety cable ensures simultaneous retrieval of all sections. 3 sections 2 risers. 1 levelling leg. Closed length: 1.26 . Color: Silver. Column cross section: Round. Column tube diameter: 55.45.38mm. Footprint maximum diameter: 50.39 . Geared Column: Yes. Leg cross section: Round. Load capacity: 66.14 lbs. Load Capacity at Maximum Extension at 6 degrees Inclination: 66.14 lbs. Material: Chrome steel. Levelling Leg: 1. Maximum height: 145.67 . Minimum height: 65.75 . Stand leg size: 30mm. Suggested Wheels: 104. 104G. 37410. Travel of Column For Each 360 degrees Turn of Handle: 1.73 . |
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